Installation and Care

 

SUITABLE SURFACES
Lightly textured or porous surfaces. Well-bonded solid floors. Dry, clean well-cured concrete (cured for at least 60 days prior). Wood floors with plywood on top. Ceramic or porcelain tiles with grout lines filled with floor leveler. All surfaces must be clean and dust free.

UNSUITABLE SURFACES
Rough, uneven surfaces including carpet and underlay. Rough heavy textured and/or uneven surfaces may telegraph through the engineered vinyl tile and distort the finished surface. This product is not suitable in rooms that could potentially flood or rooms that have damp concrete or saunas. Do not install this product in areas which are exposed to long term direct sunlight such as sun rooms or solariums.

RADIANT HEATED FLOORS
Can be installed over hydronic radiant heated floors or electric radiant heated floors that use embedded cables under the subfloor. Do not install over any electric heating mat that is installed on top of the subfloor. Do not turn heat above 29℃ (85F.)

PREPARATION
The laminated flooring should be allowed to acclimatize at room temperature (approx. 20℃) for 48 hours prior to installation. Carefully check tiles for any defects before installation. Any tile that is installed will be deemed acceptable by the installer. Check that all BATCH NUMBERS and ITEM NUMBERS are the same and you have purchased sufficient material to complete the job. Remove any traces of glue or residue from the previous flooring.
New concrete floors need to dry out for at least 60 days prior to installation. Wood floors require a below the surface. Securely nail all loose boards. Scrape, plane or fill uneven boards, holes or cracks using floor-leveling compound if sub-floor is uneven-over 3.2 mm (1/8”) within a span of 1.2 m (4’). If installing over existing tile, use a floor leveling compound to skin coat grout lines. make sure the floor is smooth, clean, and free or wax, grease, oil or dust and sealed as necessary before laying tiles.

The maximum run length is 9.14 m (30’). For areas beyond 9.14 m (30’), the floor will require transition strips.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Saw, rubber mallet, tapping block, spacers, pencil, tape measure, ruler and safety goggles

INSTALLING THE FIRST ROW
Start in a corner by placing the first tile with the tongue side facing the wall. Use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 8-12 mm (3/8”- 1/2”) between the wall and the flooring.
Insert the end tongue of the second tile into the end groove of the first tile at an angle of approx. 15-20 degrees. When lowered the tile will click into place. The tiles should be flat to the floor.

FAILURE TO PROPERLY LINE UP THE END JOINT AND ATTEMPTING TO FORCE IT IN WHILE OUT
OF ALIGNMENT COULD RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE END JOINT.

Continue connecting the first row until you reach the last full tile. Fit the last tile by rotating the tile 180 degree with the pattern side upward, place beside the row, mark and then saw off excess. Attach as described above.
It is important to ensure that the tiles in the first row are straight before beginning installation on the second row. Use a rubber mallet and tapping block.

INSTALLING THE SECOND ROW
Begin the second row with the offcut piece from the first row to stagger the pattern. Pieces should be a minimum of 150 mm (6”) long. Remember to use spacers along each wall to maintain an expansion space of 8-12 mm (3/8”- 1/2") between the wall and the flooring.
NOTE: It is faster to assemble tiles into a new row at the ends and then attach the entire row to the previous row on the long sides.
To start your second row, lay your first tile on the subfloor. Take your second tile, and insert the end tongue into the end groove of the first tile at an angle of approximately 15-20 degrees. When lowered, the tile will click into place with light pressure. The tiles should be flat to the floor. Make sure gaps are as small as possible. Continue laying remaining rows in this manner.

INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
To fit the last row, start by using the offcut piece from the previous row. Lay the tile on top of the previous row. With the tongue to the wall, use a ruler to draw a cutline. Don’t forget to allow room for spacers. Cut the tile with a saw and attach into position.

DOOR FRAMES AND HEATING VENTS
Door frames and heating vents also require expansion room. First cut the tile to the correct length. Then place the cut tile next to its actual position and use a ruler to measure the areas to be cut out and mark them. Cut out the marked points allowing the necessary expansion distance on each side.
You can trim door frames by turning a tile upside down and using a handsaw to cut away the necessary height so that tile slides easily under the frames.